By Dr. Ghislaine Lewis ~ Critograph Faculty Advisor

It’s an open secret that summer in the South is scorching, and any local will warn you against visiting during this season, especially with the added risk of being caught in a hurricane. But New Orleans in the summer is a sultry symphony of culture, history, and flavor. Since it’s the low season, it’s the ideal time to indulge without overspending if you can handle the heat. The city hums with jazz rhythms, the scent of Cajun-spiced seafood, and the rich legacy of Black artistry. Walking its streets, you feel the deep-rooted influences of African, Caribbean, and Creole traditions in every note of a brass band and every brushstroke on a gallery wall. Whether you’re savoring a bowl of gumbo, cruising the Mississippi, or getting lost in the beauty of the Garden District, summer in NOLA is an unforgettable experience. In light of this week’s Super Bowl in New Orleans, I thought I would give you a glimpse of how I have spent summers in one of my favorite cities.

Dr. Lewis in Jackson Square, a historic park that’s home to the St. Louis Cathedral, the oldest active Catholic cathedral in the United States. 

Where to Stay?

New Orleans is a city that caters to every kind of traveler, offering an incredible range of accommodations that blend history, charm, and modern luxury. Whether you’re drawn to the lively French Quarter, the elegance of the Garden District, or the artsy vibes of Bywater, there’s no shortage of places to stay that match your style and budget. You can book a room in a historic Creole townhouse, wake up in a chic boutique hotel with a courtyard oasis, or opt for a luxurious high-rise with panoramic city views. For those who love a touch of nostalgia, restored mansions and quaint bed-and-breakfasts capture the city’s timeless charm. At the same time, modern hotels offer world-class amenities just steps from New Orleans’ best dining, nightlife, and music. Whether planning a romantic getaway, a solo adventure, or a weekend with friends, finding the right place to stay in New Orleans is just as exciting as exploring the city.

View of the living room in the suites at Windsor Court.

The Windsor Court Hotel is my go-to spot when I visit, especially if you’re looking for quiet luxury. Tucked away just a short walk from the French Quarter, it epitomizes elegance and Southern hospitality; for me, it perfectly balances convenience and tranquility. Each suite is a private sanctuary with plush furnishings, marble bathrooms, and breathtaking skyline or Mississippi River views. Many even include private balconies, perfect for sipping a morning tea before a day of exploring. Beyond the accommodations, the dining experience at Windsor Court is exceptional if you are a foodie. And as blasphemous as this sounds, they serve the best beignets in the city. The Grill Room specializes in refined Creole-inspired dishes with a modern twist. At the same time, Le Salon offers a sophisticated afternoon tea service that feels like a timeless escape from the city’s lively energy. For a more relaxed setting, the Polo Club lounge is the perfect place to unwind after exploring the city. I won’t say I am partial to the Polo Club because it is one of the few bars I have come across that serves Guyanese Eldorado Rum but because the ambiance is pure understated elegance, dimly lit, with plush seating, live jazz floating through the air, and a cocktail menu that perfectly balances classic refinement with New Orleans flair.

Dr. Lewis at the Windsor Court in New Orleans

What to do?

Before diving into the vibrant streets of New Orleans on foot, I always recommend catching your bearings with the Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Tour. This tour takes you through the city’s major attractions like the French Quarter, Garden District, and Treme, allowing you to hop off and explore at your own pace. Or be brave like Dr. Roux’s NOLA spring break students and take a city bicycle tour.  While New Orleans may feel intimate in its historic districts, it’s surprisingly sprawling, with distinct neighborhoods, each offering their own charm. An open-top bus tour is the perfect way to get a broad sense of the layout while enjoying the commentary on the city’s rich history, Black culture, and architectural gems.

Once you’ve taken in the city’s layout, exploring on foot becomes second nature, whether you’re weaving through the lively markets of the French Quarter, strolling beneath the shaded oaks of St. Charles Avenue, or seeking out a tucked-away restaurant in the Marigny. One of the most incredible things about New Orleans is its walkability. From the energy of Bourbon Street to the artistic charm of Royal Street and the deep history of the Treme, every turn reveals a new story waiting to be discovered. The city’s flat terrain and compact layout make it easy to wander, and you never know what kind of magic you’ll stumble upon, from impromptu brass band performances to hidden courtyards overflowing with blooming jasmine. In New Orleans, the best way to experience the city’s soul is simply by walking.

Black Culture & Art: The Heartbeat of the City

New Orleans is a city where Black culture isn’t just celebrated; it is the culture. From the legendary Second Line parades to the timeless impact of Congo Square, the spirit of resistance and creativity is woven into every corner of the city. Jazz, blues, funk, and hip-hop have deep roots here, evolving through generations of Black musicians who continue pushing boundaries and redefining sound.

For an authentic taste of New Orleans’ music scene, skip the overly touristy Bourbon Street and head straight to Frenchmen Street. Here, live music spills into the streets from clubs like The Spotted Cat, Blue Nile, and Snug Harbor, where some of the best Black musicians in the country perform everything from traditional jazz to brass-heavy funk. Even more impressive is that many venues have no cover charge, making it easy to pop in and out and discover fresh sounds and new talent at every turn.

Beyond music, New Orleans’ artistic and historical legacy is just as powerful. In the Treme neighborhood, the New Orleans African American Museum offers a deep dive into the city’s Black heritage through art, photography, and historical exhibits. As the oldest African American neighborhood in the U.S., the Treme itself feels like a living museum; its streets are lined with historic Creole cottages, cultural landmarks, and the echoes of jazz legends who once played here.

Dr. Lewis immersed in the art at Studio BE.

Studio BE in the Bywater neighborhood is a must-visit for those passionate about art and activism. Founded by local artist Brandon “BMike” Odums, this 35,000-square-foot warehouse gallery is an awe-inspiring space where large-scale murals and mixed-media installations bring Black history, resilience, and identity to life. I have spent hours exploring this space; every piece carries a powerful message, honoring civil rights leaders, depicting the struggles and triumphs of the Black experience, or offering thought-provoking social commentary. The art invites visitors to engage deeply with narratives that inspire, educate, and empower. Whether you’re a music lover, a history enthusiast, or an art aficionado, this is just a snapshot of recommendations New Orleans offers.

My Favorite Galleries

New Orleans’ artistic spirit thrives in the city’s dynamic visual arts landscape, where color, culture, and creativity collide. From high-end galleries on Royal Street to street-art-inspired works in tucked-away studios, the large murals that tell of the city’s art scene capture the energy and soul of New Orleans in every brushstroke.

One of my favorite jaunts is The Kezic Gallery, a space that showcases contemporary works bursting with color. The gallery has a stunning collection of modern impressionist and abstract art, where vivid colors, fluid movement, and intricate textures create pieces that feel alive. Each canvas captures the essence of New Orleans, its music, its architecture, and its unmistakable spirit through layered compositions. The gallery is a must-visit for anyone who appreciates expressive, dynamic art that reflects the rhythm and culture of New Orleans in every stroke.

Snapshot from the Becky Fos Gallery

Another artist whose work I am obsessed with is Becky Fos. I fell in love with her vibrant, textured paintings after my first visit to her Garden District gallery, and I’ve been captivated ever since. Her art brings New Orleans to life through electrifying hues and dynamic textures, often depicting iconic city imagery, musicians, shotgun houses, streetcars, and Mardi Gras scenes in an almost kinetic way. Her paintings don’t just depict New Orleans; they embody its pulse, making her work a perfect keepsake for anyone looking to bring a piece of the city home.

Of course, New Orleans is also a melting pot of artistic innovation, and no place exemplifies that better than Caliche & Pao Gallery. This immersive space blends urban aesthetics with Latin American influences, creating a modern experience deeply rooted in tradition. Walking through the gallery is like stepping into a world where color and movement take on their own life. The artistic duo, Caliche & Pao, masterfully fuses street art, cultural heritage, and layered textures to craft visually striking and emotionally resonant pieces. Their work always sparks conversation, exploring themes of identity, passion, and artistic rebellion in a way that lingers long after you leave. From contemporary paintings to rebellious street art, the city’s visual landscape is a testament to its unyielding creative spirit.

Bargain Hunting at the French Market

If you love the thrill of bargain shopping, then the French Market is the ultimate treasure hunt. Every time I visit, I lose myself in the rows of vendors, hunting for one-of-a-kind artwork and quirky souvenirs that capture the city’s spirit. Stretching along the Mississippi River, this historic open-air market has been a staple since 1791, and it’s still the best place to haggle for a deal in the city. I’ve snagged everything from handmade gifts to Creole spice blends; I always leave with something unexpected. Let’s be honest: no trip to the French Market is complete without grabbing a bag of local pralines before heading back for one last round of shopping.

Mississippi Cruisin’

View aboard the Steamboat Natchez. Photo by Dr. Ghislaine Lewis

Experiencing the mighty Mississippi River is a must while in NOLA. This waterway has shaped the city’s history, bringing centuries of commerce, culture, and a steady stream of visitors. One of the best ways to take it all in is by hopping aboard the Steamboat Natchez.

An evening jazz cruise on the Natchez blends romance, music, and stunning city views perfectly. As the boat drifts along the river, you’ll enjoy a delicious Creole-inspired dinner while a live jazz band sets the mood with soulful melodies. The glow of the city lights reflecting on the water and the paddlewheel’s rhythmic churning creates an almost cinematic atmosphere. This is an unforgettable way to experience New Orleans at night.

Exploring the Garden District

While the French Quarter usually gets all the attention, the Garden District has a serene magic. This is my favorite segment of the city. I’ve spent entire afternoons wandering this neighborhood, where grand colonial mansions, tree-lined streets, and historic cemeteries create a mesmerizing blend of architecture and history. This is a must-visit for history lovers or anyone drawn to the past.

Taking a stroll through this neighborhood feels like stepping back in time. The historic homes that line these streets each have a distinctive charm and a storied past. Intricately designed wrought-iron balconies, lush gardens, and the shade of towering oak trees create a dreamlike setting that feels almost untouched by time. It’s the kind of place where you can escape the city’s bustle and just breathe.

One of the most hauntingly beautiful spots is Lafayette Cemetery No. 1, with its above-ground tombs and intricate stonework. There’s something peaceful about wandering through this historic resting place, taking in the stories etched into the mausoleums.

Explore the Haunted Side of Armstrong Park

By day, Armstrong Park is a peaceful tribute to jazz legend Louis Armstrong, with its grand archway, serene lagoons, and sculptures honoring the city’s rich musical heritage. But when the sun sets, the park takes on a different energy steeped in history, mystery, and the supernatural. Located in the historic Treme neighborhood, Armstrong Park is home to Congo Square, a sacred space where enslaved Africans once gathered on Sundays to dance, drum, and keep their cultural traditions alive. Many believe that the echoes of those gatherings still linger, with reports of distant drumming heard in the stillness of the night.

A haunted tour of Armstrong Park unveils its more profound, unsettling past with tales of ghostly figures, voodoo rituals, and restless spirits that some say still roam its moss-draped oaks and winding paths. You can feel the eerie sensations, whispers, and fleeting shadows, especially near the Mahalia Jackson Theater, adding to the park’s mystique.

Whether you’re a history buff, paranormal enthusiast, or just looking for a spine-tingling experience, a haunted tour of Armstrong Park offers an unforgettable journey into the city’s haunted past. With every step, you’ll uncover the rich blend of folklore and reality that makes New Orleans one of the most haunted cities in the world.

Where to Eat? 

The sign outside of Mother’s Restaurant in New Orleans.

If there’s one thing New Orleans does exceptionally well, it’s food. The city’s cuisine blends African, French, Spanish, and Caribbean influences, creating mouthwatering dishes rich in history, flavor, and cultural tradition. My first stop on every visit to New Orleans is Mother’s Restaurant, famous for its no-frills yet incredibly delicious menu featuring roast beef debris po’boys, red beans and rice, and jambalaya. No matter the time of day, there’s always a line, but trust me, it’s worth the wait.

One of the most legendary spots and one of Dr. Roux’s favorites is Willie Mae’s Scotch House in the historic Treme neighborhood. Their fried chicken is the stuff of legends: crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside, and seasoned to perfection. It’s the kind of meal that makes you want to sit back, sip on some sweet tea, and savor every bite. Another must-visit is Dooky Chase’s, a restaurant that’s been a cornerstone of Black culture and cuisine for decades. The gumbo here is unbeatable, packed with rich, smoky flavors that warm the soul.

French toast from The Ruby Slipper Cafe in the Garden District.

For brunch, The Ruby Slipper Café is a must. This beloved spot serves decadent Southern classics, such as banana foster French toast, eggs cochon, and signature mimosas, that make for the perfect start to a day of exploring. If you’re in the mood for a hearty, old-school Creole dinner, Tujague’s Restaurant, which has been around since 1856, is a historic institution. Be sure to try their turtle soup and their legendary grasshopper cocktail. 

For a casual bite, Parkway Bakery & Tavern is home to one of the best po’boys in the city. You won’t be disappointed if you go for fried shrimp, roast beef, or the classic surf-and-turf. Another great lunch option is The Gumbo Shop, where you can enjoy a warm, comforting bowl of seafood gumbo or shrimp creole. For an afternoon snack, head to Zhang’s Bistro and try their Peking duck sampler, a mouthwatering fusion of Asian and Creole flavors that perfectly captures the city’s diverse culinary influences. Mambo’s Cajun & Creole, located in the heart of the French Quarter, offers classic New Orleans flavors, such as blackened redfish, crawfish étouffée, and seafood gumbo, with stunning views of Bourbon Street.

The menu at Pat O’Briens in New Orleans. Photo by Dr. Ghislaine Lewis

No trip to New Orleans is complete without a cocktail, and there’s no better place to experience a classic hurricane than at Pat O’Brien’s. This legendary bar serves the famous rum punch in their courtyard, making it a great spot to take a break before heading out for the night. For seafood lovers, Landry’s Seafood House offers fresh Gulf oysters, blackened redfish, and crawfish étouffée in a scenic waterfront setting perfect for dinner.

Dr. Lewis sampling the beignets at Cafe du Monde.

If you have a sweet tooth, Café du Monde is an experience and a must for beignets that pair perfectly with chicory coffee or orange juice, if you’re a non-coffee drinker like me. And when the summer heat gets overwhelming, cool off with a Hansen’s Sno-Bliz snowball. This isn’t just shaved ice; it’s a New Orleans institution. With flavors like satsuma, wedding cake, and nectar cream, it’s the perfect pick-me-up after a long day of exploring.

The city’s food scene is a feast for the senses, from old-school Creole classics to modern twists on New Orleans flavors. Whether indulging in a plate of gumbo, savoring a po’boy, or toasting with a Hurricane, every meal in New Orleans is an experience to remember.

Are You NOLA Ready?

Without a doubt, New Orleans is hot in the summer, but the city’s magic far outweighs the heat. From the moment you arrive, it embraces you with its rhythm, feeds your soul with unforgettable food, and surrounds you with a vibrant artistic spirit that lingers long after you leave. Whether dancing to an impromptu brass band in the French Quarter, sipping a Hurricane at Pat O’Brien’s, or discovering hidden courtyards bursting with blooming jasmine, every corner of the city tells a story.

The beauty of New Orleans lies in its layers; it is a city where history and modern life blend seamlessly. New Orleans isn’t just a place you visit; it’s a city that seeps into your bones. No matter how often you return, the Crescent City never disappoints; it always leaves you longing for one more day.

Have you been to New Orleans in the summer? 

Share your favorite spots in the comments!