Jamaica: Sun, Sand, Sea and Discovering Self

By Dr. Ghislaine Lewis ~ Critograph Faculty Advisor

While Jamaica is known as a tourist mecca, it is also the birthplace of many iconic figures who have made an indelible impact on the world. From the revolutionary spirit of Nanny of the Maroons to the global influence of Marcus Garvey, Jamaica has long been a beacon of strength, resistance, and pride. From Usain Bolt and Bob Marley to Grace Jones and Michael Manley, these icons have left a lasting legacy of excellence and social transformation, solidifying Jamaica’s impact on the world stage. Jamaica exercises significant soft power through its rich culture, athletic achievements, and activism. As an island teeming with talent, it continues influencing global perspectives and inspiring people worldwide.

Dr. Lewis on Seven Mile Beach in Negril, Jamaica. Photo by Dr. Ghislaine Lewis.

I spent winter break on island time in this magical place I consider my second home. No matter how long I am away from Jamaica, it remains where I feel most at home. However, at 13, moving from Guyana to Jamaica felt like stepping into an entirely different universe. The culture shock was palpable, a seismic shift that rattled my young identity. Guyana had shaped my early years with its diverse blend of cultures, rivers, and rainforests, but Jamaica—bold, vibrant, unapologetically confident— was where I spent my formative years. This island, the land of wood and water, a short 90-minute flight south of Miami, is where I found myself. Moving to a country of almost three million people, the air felt different, thick with the scent of the Caribbean Sea, the warmth of the sun, and the sounds of a culture that is the island’s heartbeat.

I remember the late September day we moved to Jamaica like yesterday. The first thing that struck me was the stunning view of the houses dotted among mountains as our Caribbean Airlines flight landed; the second was the undeniable confidence of Jamaicans as we navigated the hustle and bustle of Kingston. There’s an innate self-assuredness woven into the fabric of Jamaican society. It’s in how people walk, talk, and carry themselves—as if the island breathes life into their spirit. This was both inspiring and intimidating for someone grappling with the trauma of adjustment. Moving from one country to another is more than a change of scenery; it’s a redefinition of self. I grappled with feelings of isolation and the constant pressure to adapt and maintain my grades. That first year was difficult; I often felt like an outsider, navigating new social norms, accents, and unspoken cultural codes. Even though I spoke Guyanese Creole, learning Jamaican Patois felt like acquiring a new language that was not just a means of communication but a dynamic reflection of identity, humor, and resilience. The beauty of self-expression in Patois, with its lyrical flow and rhythmic cadences, added another layer to my cultural immersion. But looking back, I see these challenges were also opportunities. Jamaica forced me to build resilience and develop the confidence to overcome any situation. Jamaica didn’t just test me; it transformed me.

It was in Jamaica that I learned the true meaning of authenticity. People are unapologetically themselves, embracing their identities with pride and passion. This authenticity was infectious; it encouraged me to embrace what made me different. It taught me that true confidence comes from self-acceptance, from understanding who you are and where you come from.

Christmas 2018 in Jamaica with my brothers Dr. Shaquille Lewis and Dr. Jamal Lewis.

What constituted a family took on a deeper meaning in Jamaica. It wasn’t just about blood relations; it was about the connections we forged, the communities we joined, and the support systems we built. My brothers and I were inseparable as we navigated our new home together; it is where my mom said we became better children, and shared trauma strengthened our bond. Together, we navigated the streets of Kingston, became immersed in gardening, developed friendships outside of our perceived social circle, went to sleep to the sound of gunshots during periods of civil unrest, and learned to keep our heads on a swivel.  Here, I learned valuable lessons about loyalty and love.

Jamaica is a land of contrasts; it is more than the sun, sand, sea, and sex we see in television commercials. It is where postcard-perfect beaches coexist with visible class divisions. Here, I first understood the extreme social stratification that comes with education and wealth that wasn’t then a part of Guyana’s cultural fabric. I became acutely aware of the deepseeded disparities that existed. They weren’t just economic; they shaped opportunities, education, and social interactions.  The postcard-perfect beaches of Negril, the palatial homes that spread across the hills of Kingston, and the lush, cascading waterfalls of Ocho Rios starkly contrast with the struggles faced in less privileged communities where one-room dwellings can be the norm. Here, I first saw people openly decide whether to take me seriously based on where I lived and my parents’ professions. Witnessing this firsthand ignited my curiosity and a desire to understand the forces that create and sustain such divides. This curiosity would eventually shape my research agenda as I delved into the socio-economic dynamics of the Caribbean.

Education in Jamaica is more than a pathway to success; it’s a lifeline. It was here that I truly understood its value. My experience at the prestigious Wolmer’s High School for Girls, which dates back to 1729, was life-defining. Moving from a co-educational environment in Guyana to an all-girls school was a cultural adjustment.  The competitive spirit was fierce, with students striving for excellence, fueled by personal ambition and societal expectations. This environment pushed me to excel and understand that my educational access was a privilege. At Wolmers, I found my voice over those five years, surrounded by ambitious, intelligent young women who inspired me daily. The camaraderie, the competitive debates, and the friendships forged at Marescaux Rd shaped my academic journey and eventually influenced my decision to attend Randolph-Macon Woman’s College.

But Jamaica wasn’t just about my academic and spiritual growth. It was where I fell in love with the calm of the Caribbean Sea, reggae’s rhythmic pulse, and dancehall’s electrifying energy. The island was alive with cultural experiences that shaped my identity. I remember the thrill of watching West Indies cricket matches at Sabina Park and cultural shows at the Little Theatre, which showcased Jamaica’s artistic soul. Saturdays were reserved for roaming around Sovereign Center, where the buzz of shoppers, the allure of local boutiques, and impromptu movie afternoons with friends created cherished memories. 

And then there were the parties! Jamaican parties often don’t start until after midnight, with the energy peaking as the dancehall beats fill the night air and the crowds move in sync with the pulsating rhythms. The music is more than entertainment; it is a cultural heartbeat that reflects the island’s history, struggles, and triumphs. The lyrics tell stories of love, tenacity, and social commentary, while the rhythms connect people from all walks of life. The spontaneity of street dances, the elegance of formal gatherings, and the carefree vibe of beach parties all paint a vivid picture of Jamaica’s colorful social scene.

These experiences were not just events but electrifying expressions of life, culture, and Jamaica’s spirit. They taught me the importance of community, the power of creative expression, and the joy of embracing every moment with passion and authenticity. Reggae’s soulful melodies and dancehall’s virile beats became the soundtrack of my youth, cementing my love for culture in all its forms. 

Jamaica is an island you can visit repeatedly and still find hidden gems. My must-visit spots include the Strawberry Hill Hotel in the Blue Mountains, where breathtaking hikes offer panoramic views and a taste of the world’s finest coffee. Reach Falls, hidden within verdant greenery, provides tranquility and adventure. Dunn’s River Falls in Ocho Rios invites you to climb its natural terraces and feel the incredible rush of water against your skin. With its rustic charm and golden sunsets, Treasure Beach on the south coast offers a peaceful escape far from the tourist crowds. As a teenager, this was my playground. 

Dr. Lewis at the Bob Marley Museum in Kingston, Jamaica

In Portland, the Blue Lagoon captivates with its mystical turquoise waters that seem to shift shades with the sun, a place where legends and natural beauty intertwine. Boston Bay, the birthplace of jerk seasoning, offers culinary delights that awaken your taste buds. In Kingston, the Bob Marley Museum is a tribute to the reggae legend. At the same time, Devon House, a colonial-era mansion built by George Stiebel, Jamaica’s first Black millionaire in 1881, serves the island’s most beloved ice cream. Chukka Cove at Good Hope offers adventure seekers the thrill of zip-lining, river tubing, and ATV rides through the lush Jamaican countryside, blending nature and excitement seamlessly.

Dr. Ghislaine Lewis rafting on the Martha Brae in Trelawny, Jamaica.

Jamaica is the perfect place to begin one’s international travel journey. You can embrace the luxury of all-inclusive hotels in Montego Bay or Ocho Rios, where everything you need is at your fingertips, or choose small, locally-owned properties that immerse you in authentic Jamaican culture. Whether you prefer the pulsating nightlife of Kingston or the peaceful charm of rural parishes, there’s an experience tailored for every traveler. River rafting on the Martha Brae, exploring the limestone caves of Green Grotto, or soaking in the mineral-rich waters of Milk River Bath, Jamaica, offers endless opportunities for discovery.

The beaches are an integral part of Jamaica’s allure. Negril’s Seven Mile Beach boasts powdery white sand and crystal-clear waters, perfect for sunbathing and water sports. Spending time there, I was captivated by the sunsets that painted the sky in hues of orange and pink, while the rhythmic sounds of waves created a serene backdrop. Doctor’s Cave Beach in Montego Bay is known for its therapeutic waters and marine life, making it a snorkeler’s paradise. For a more secluded experience, Lime Cay, a small island off Kingston’s coast, is a hidden gem accessible by boat, where you can experience pristine waters and a peaceful escape from the city buzz.

Spending Christmas on the island reminded me of its unparalleled beauty and warmth. The festive spirit was infectious, with homes adorned in colorful lights, the sounds of carols blending seamlessly with reggae beats, and the irresistible aroma of traditional dishes like curried goat. The beaches glistened under the Caribbean sun, the turquoise waters were as inviting as ever, and the lush green hills seemed to embrace the horizon. The warmth wasn’t just from the tropical climate but from the spirit of the people—their laughter, hospitality, and never-ending celebrations. It perfectly blended nostalgia and new memories, reinforcing my deep connection to this extraordinary place.

But I can’t wrap this up without discussing a hallmark of Jamaican culture: the food. The tantalizing aroma of jerk chicken sizzling from the pan man (roadside vendors), the spicy delight of a perfectly baked Tastee patty, and the comforting flavors of a mackerel rundown. Each meal has a celebrated history and tradition passed down through generations. Jamaica is a dream for food enthusiasts, a sensory overload with fresh produce, spices, and local delicacies.  And yes, Jamaica has the best KFC in the world. It is flavorful and unlike any other I have tasted in all my travels.

Jamaica is a land of beauty and strength, where lush landscapes and resilient people shaped who I am. The island’s breathtaking sunsets, the rhythmic crash of waves against the shore, the endless slate of parties, and the warmth of its people all left an indelible mark on my heart. As I sat down to write this and reflect on my time there, I was amazed at how transformative growing up in Jamaica was. It defined my identity, ignited my passions, and instilled an unwavering belief in the power of education, culture, and community. Jamaica didn’t just shape my teenage years; it shaped my life.

Sunset at Alligator Pond in Manchester, Jamaica. Photo by Dr. Ghislaine Lewis

Jamaica is more than just a destination; it’s an invitation to connect with nature, culture, and oneself. Whether you’re basking on sun-kissed beaches, savoring flavorful cuisine, dancing to the beat of reggae, or immersing yourself in the island’s rich history, Jamaica offers something for every traveler. Its spirit is infectious, its beauty timeless, and its people unforgettable. 

I invite you to consider visiting Jamaica!