Guyana: My Home, My Heart

By Dr. Ghislane Lewis ~ Critograph Faculty Advisor

After living in or visiting 42 countries, six continents, and too many cities to count, I thought I would kick off my new ‘Travel with Me’ column with a glimpse of my homeland, Guyana. Nestled between South American giants Venezuela and Brazil, Guyana is a forgotten treasure in the Americas. With a diverse population of approximately 813,834 until recently, our claim to fame has been the Jonestown Massacre.

Although I left Guyana at 13, it is a place I return to when I want to feel grounded. It is where I feel the heart of my West Indian heritage. Still, it is also where I almost feel like an outsider as I critique and often become disillusioned with the lack of progress despite my country’s vast potential.

Off the beaten tourism path and nestled on the northeastern shoulder of South America, Guyana is the “Land of Many Waters” and the home of six peoples. The country is a conundrum; even though it is located on the mainland, it is culturally Caribbean and a founding member of the Caribbean Community (CARICOM). It is also the only native English-speaking country on the continent. This vibrant cultural tapestry shaped my childhood and left me with a deep appreciation for the foundation it provided for my global perspective. Even though it has a majority Indo-Guyanese population, as a multiracial democracy, Guyana is a place where Afro-Guyanese, Amerindians, Europeans, Chinese, and Portuguese have coexisted for generations, each contributing to a shared cultural heritage that is as rich as the soil beneath our feet.

Guyana’s history of multiculturalism is evident in our cultural celebrations, national dishes, and the vibrancy of day-to-day life. Growing up in Guyana, there were so many cultural holidays. I remember celebrating Diwali with my neighbors with lights and sweetmeats and then eagerly looking forward to Mashramani—our celebration of becoming a cooperative republic.  Mashramani is derived from an Amerindian (Arawak) word meaning “celebration after cooperative work.” Of all my country’s celebrations, this one embodies the spirit of joy and festivity that I remember most from my childhood. These celebrations weren’t just occasions; they were symbols of our unity as we took to the streets to celebrate what made us all Guyanese. Despite political and social challenges that have plagued Guyana’s development, this shared culture has become a cornerstone of its identity. This unique blend of people and traditions sets Guyana apart from many other destinations worldwide.

But Guyana is more than its people and history. It is a land of unspoiled beauty and untapped potential. Acquaintances often ask, “What’s there to see in Guyana?” My answer is always, “Where do I even begin?”

My homeland is objectively beautiful. It is part of the protected Guiana Shield and is teaming with biodiversity and eco-tourism opportunities. It is the land of jaguars, with vast rivers, gold and mineral deposits, and transformational cultural experiences.

Dr. Ghislaine Lewis at Kaiteur Falls in Guyana.

But I would always say, at the top of your list, if you visit, it should be Kaiteur Falls. It is the world’s tallest single-drop waterfall and is an emblem of Guyana’s raw, natural power. I sang national songs of Kaiteur’s splendor as a child. Still, visiting as an adult almost 10 years ago, I was awestruck by the thunderous roar of water plunging into a deep gorge surrounded by pristine rainforest. The journey to Kaieteur is an adventure, often involving a small plane ride over miles of untouched jungle. The beauty of the journey is spellbinding, and for me, it was the adventure of a lifetime and a moment that made me reflect on just how much of the world’s beauty remains untouched.

Venture further, and you’ll encounter the Rupununi Savannah, where sprawling grasslands meet distant mountains and are home to Guyana’s Amerindian population. Visiting this region as a child felt like stepping into another world. In the Rupununi, my brother and I experienced true freedom to explore, learn about our history, and understand our grandfather’s legacy. I marveled at the vastness of the plains and the simplicity of life. Eco-tourism is gaining traction here, and rightly so, as Guyana holds one of the last true wildernesses on Earth. The indigenous communities of the Rupununi also play a vital role in preserving this environment, offering visitors a chance to experience traditional lifestyles while contributing to sustainable tourism.

Our coastlines, though less dramatic than the traditional blue waters of the Caribbean, tell another important story. Protected by mangroves and home to golden beaches, they are where the bulk of Guyana’s population resides. The seawall, a popular spot in Georgetown, our capital city, was where many of us grew up flying kites at Easter or simply enjoying the ocean breeze on a Sunday afternoon. Georgetown is a microcosm of Guyana’s charm, with its wooden colonial architecture, bustling markets, and the iconic St. George’s Cathedral, one of the tallest wooden buildings in the world.

Beyond its tourism hotspots, Guyana’s natural resources are a testament to its wealth and potential. Known for its lush rainforests, bauxite reserves, and burgeoning oil industry, the nation’s riches have long been the subject of international interest. However, as a child, its simplicity all struck me: the mango trees in my grandma’s yard, the fertile soil that seemed capable of growing anything, and the rivers brimming with fish. These rivers, particularly the mighty Essequibo, have been lifelines for generations, supporting agriculture, transportation, and livelihoods.

Today, the discovery of vast oil reserves has brought newfound attention and opportunities, but with it comes the challenge of ensuring that development benefits all Guyanese. The government’s commitment to sustainable development and environmental conservation is crucial as we balance economic growth with preserving our natural heritage. When I have conversations about Guyana and the sudden onslaught of international investments, I always stress that we must be strategic about responsibly leveraging our natural resources.

My parents were intentional about us being global citizens; we explored our homeland and spent summers in the Caribbean. I have been fortunate to have a truly international education experience, first in the United States and then in New Zealand, with stops at the University of Oxford in the United Kingdom and Monash University in Australia. Travel has always been important to me because it offers me a chance to connect with the world; I always say that travel has been my best education. It has broadened my perspectives, taught me how to be more empathetic, and, with every new experience, reminds me that our shared humanity transcends borders. Every journey is an opportunity to learn—about different cultures, histories, and environments. Travel is not just about seeing new places; it is about experiencing them, immersing myself in their rhythms, and carrying those lessons into the classroom. Through my global travel, I have come to appreciate the uniqueness of Guyana even more, recognizing how it contributes to the global mosaic.

Reflecting on my upbringing, I realize how deeply Guyana’s uniqueness is etched into my identity. It is a place where the natural world and human culture coexist in a delicate dance. Guyana may not yet be a household name in global tourism, but for those who seek authenticity and adventure, it’s a paradise waiting to be discovered.

To anyone considering a visit, I say this: come not just to see but to feel. Feel the spray of Kaieteur Falls, the warmth of a Guyanese curry shared among friends, and the rhythm of steelpan music at a neighborhood celebration. Explore the untouched beauty of the Iwokrama Rainforest, where biodiversity thrives and scientists continue to uncover new species. Wander through bustling markets like Stabroek, where vendors sell everything from fresh produce to handmade crafts, reflecting the industrious spirit of the Guyanese people.

Most importantly, feel the spirit of a nation that thrives on its diversity and natural beauty. Guyana is not just a destination; it’s an experience I promise you carry with you forever. Whether you’re an adventurer seeking the thrill of uncharted territories, a history enthusiast delving into colonial legacies, or someone looking for a unique getaway, Guyana offers something for everyone. It is a land of potential, resilience, and endless wonders, and I am proud to call it home.

Come Discover My Guyana!